目立ちたがりなお肉を脇役に!To the side actors of the meat that stands out!

もっと光を! 料理の脇役たちにもっと光を! いやいや、わかってはいるんです。目立ちたがりなお肉たちは、主役を張るだけの確固たる実力と人気を兼ね備えているってことを。でも。だからこそ。控え目で謙虚な「付け合わせ」という名の脇役たちに、もっと光を!

レシピ&文/山田英季(and recipe) 撮影/鈴木泰介

More light! More light to the food’s supporting actors! Oh, no, I get it. It means when the meat that stands out is worthy of taking the leading role on itself with its firm ability and popularity. But. That is why. More light to the supporting actors that are known as subtle and balanced ‘Garnish.’

Recipe and Text / Hidesue Yamada (and recipe)
Photographer / Taisuke Suzuki

キャベツと大葉のしば漬けドレッシング(鶏の唐揚げ)Shredded cabbage and “Shiso” with “Shibazuke” dressing (Fried chicken Japanese style)


When we talk about garnishing ‘Karaage,’ popular Japanese style fried chicken, it would usually be mayonnaise on top of shredded cabbage or lettuce and sometimes potato salad. I am not saying that it is not satisfying. It is just that I want to devour the deliciousness of karaage dipped in the dazzling fried oil. The original seasonings for chicken karaage can be roughly divided into soy sauce based and salt based. It is a matter of taste too but I personally would like to recommend the one that uses the salt based garnishing. That is also because, this time the dressing used in garnishing consists of simple saltiness together with the blend of ponzu (Japanese sauce that made primarily of soy sauce and citrus juice) and Shibazuke when mixed with the deep taste of sourness, it helps to add the crisp texture to karaage that surmounts the taste to a legit one. In other words, the point of quality of this kind of garnishing hugely depends on the way you eat it. The simple salty taste could also get a bit monotonous, so before you extend the chopsticks with your three fingertips, take a side trip towards the garnish, pick up a little bit and put that on top of your favorite karaage. Hold the karaage with the chopsticks next and eat the whole piece of karaage in one bite. That mundane texture of the juice that spreads in your mouth and the wave of sourness cleansing the heaviness of the frying oil. Making one feel speechless about the balance of the taste. You will definitely call this garnishing ‘a source of magic.’

  • キャベツ 1/4玉
  • 大葉 10枚
  • 白ごま 大さじ1
  • a しば漬け 30g
  • a ポン酢 大さじ2
  • a 砂糖 小さじ1
  • a ごま油 小さじ1
  • 1/4 cabbage
  • 10 ”Shiso”(Beefstackplant)
  • 1tbsp white sesame
  • <a>30g ”Shibazuke”(Kyoto-style chopper cucumbers picked in salt with redshiso leaves)
  • <a>2tbsp "Ponzu" vinegar
  • <a>1tsp sugar
  • <a>1tsp sesame oil


1. Cut the cabbage and “Shiso” into jullenne strips. Chop the “Shibazuke” into fine pieces.
2. Mix the in a bowl.
3. Put the cabbage and “Shiso” in a serving plate and The pour the “Shibazuke” dressing over the top


“It a pot that I bought at Hobonichi. It is a curry plate but it could also be used to serve salad or soup items like oden. The size is also convenient for day-to-day use.” -Yamada

焼きししとうとコーンのごま和え(サーロインステーキ)Grilled sweet green pepper and corn “Goma-ae [Grilled sweet green pepper and cone dressed with sesame paste] (Siroin steak)

サーロインステーキ。この料理ほど破壊力のある料理はほかにみたことがない。そもそも付け合わせなど必要なのかとすら思う。そんなサーロインステーキを脇役にするほどの付け合わせなど存在するのだろうか? いやあるはずがない。しかし、見つけてしまいました。「焼きししとうとコーンのごま和え」。この付け合わせは、偶然の連続から発見された。たまたま入ったお店で、たまたまお通しがししとうの焼きびたし、たまたまステーキを注文し、そこには、たまたまバターコーンが添えられ、加えてたまたまいんげんのごま和えを注文した奇跡の日。圧倒的主役なステーキを異常においしく感じた、あの夜。この日から、料理家である僕の研究がはじまった。なぜこんなにもおいしいのか? サーロインステーキのおいしい理由はなんといっても牛肉の旨味と脂身の甘さだ。そこに加わるししとうの苦味、練りごまの良質な油脂分。そして、忘れてはならないステーキの相棒であるバターコーンの、言わずと知れた相性の良さに醤油の香ばしい香り。すべてが口の中でマッチしていく。これぞ夢の共演。このお皿の上で激しく主張しあうそれぞれの食材を、ごはんという主食がひとつにまとめていく。それはまるで豪華キャストのハリウッド映画を見ているようだ。1995年公開、アルパチーノとロバートデニーロのダブル主演によるドンパチアクション映画『HEAT』。クールに任務遂行する強盗団のリーダー、「ロバート・ししとうコーン・ゴマアエーロ」。迎え撃つは贅沢な脇役、敏腕警官「アルパチーノサーロインステーキ」である。みなさん人生で一度は試すべき作品だ。

Siroin Steak. I have never seen any other food as powerful enough as this one. I wonder if we even need garnishing for this in the first place. I don’t even think the garnishing of some sort exists for this kind of Siroin Steak. I’m pretty sure there isn’t any. But I did end up finding one. “Grilled sweet green pepper and cone dressed with sesame paste.” I discovered this garnishing after a chain of accidents. It was a miraculous day when I happened to enter this restaurant and order an appetizer with grilled sweet green pepper and steak that somehow was further accompanied by buttered corn marinated with sesame paste and green beans. It was a night when that steak alone stole the show by its absolute lusciousness. I being a cook myself, started researching from that very day. Why was it that tasty? The reason why Siroin Steak is so good should not be anything other than the sweet flavor of the beef and its fat. And the bitterness of green pepper applied to it with a paste of good quality oil, fat and sesame. Further not missing a chance to add a close companion of steak, buttered corn and needless to say, adding the aroma of soy sauce to the already existing chemistry. Everything comes along together in your mouth. This is like a dream come true. Each delightful ingredient on the dish seems to assemble together to make a standard food. It is something like watching a Hollywood movie with a great cast. Al Pacino and Robert De Niro starrer ‘HEAT’ that came out in 1995 with a lot of gun firing actions. Coolly accomplishing his duty as a leader of the robber cops, “Robert-green pepper and corn-gomaae-ro.” And supporting role by an ace cop, “Al Pacino Sirion Steak” comfortably confronting his enemies. It is a must try dish at least once in your lifetime.

  • ししとう 15本
  • ホールコーン缶 80g
  • a ねりごま 大さじ3
  • a 醤油 大さじ2/3
  • a 砂糖 小さじ1
  • a コーン缶の汁 大さじ3
  • バター 10g
  • 黒こしょう 少々
  • 15 sweet green pepper
  • 80g canned corn
  • <a>3tbsp sesame paste
  • <a>2/3tbsp soysauce
  • <a>1tsp sugar
  • <a>3tbsp canned corn juice
  • 10g butter
  • black pepper taste


1. Heat the butter in a frying pan and fry the sweet green pepper and canned corn until brown. 2. Mix the sesame paste, soy sauce, sugar, and canned corn juice in a bowl. Add the '1.' , and mix well. 3. Place the '2.' on the serving plate. Garnish with rough ground black peppers.


“I bought this from an interior shop in Sendagaya. It is a bowl from Sousougama and the color is my favorite. It is great that it can be used as a single plate thus very easy to use.” -Yamada