旅と市場journey and Market

trip②台湾「台中第二市場」trip2 Taiwan “The second market in Taichung”

Q.旅で必ず立ち寄る場所は? A.市場。Q.What is the place you always have to drop off during a trip? A.Market

市場はその土地で一番早起きで、いつだって現地に暮らす人々の食と心を満たす大切な場所。
どんな人だって受け入れてくれる活気ある場所は、おいしいものとおもしろいストーリーでいっぱいです。

写真と文:山田英季(and recipe)

A market is the earliest bird in the city and an important place
that fulfills the stomachs and hearts of the local people.
An animated lively place, that accepts anybody,
is always full of delicious dishes and interesting stories.

Photos and Story by:Hidesue Yamada(and recipe)

今回の目的地は台湾の市場。現地での移動が多いことを考えて、できるだけ長く向こうにいようと早朝のフライトを予約し、羽田に着いたのがAM4:30。「まずは腹ごしらえ!」とフードコートでカツカレーを頬張り、搭乗ゲートに向かう。そこで、やる気もお腹も満タンな僕に伝えられた悲しき一報、「ご搭乗の航空機は羽田空港に到着していないため、出発時刻は未定となっております」。まぁまぁ、旅にアクシデントはつきもの。気持ちを入れ替え、少し寝ようと横になったものの固いソファに何度も目が覚め、あげくの果てに血迷った料理家(僕)は満タンなはずなのにソフトクリームを別腹に入れる始末。その後、飛行機は3時間飛ばず。今回の旅は、まずまずのハプニングで始まったのだった。

桃園空港からタクシーで台北の中心に移動し、仕事と昼食を済ませて新幹線に乗ること40分。待ってました、台中市。出だしではこけたものの、飛行機からの新幹線で、旅好きの僕のテンションはマックス。ホテルについて少し休憩して、愛甲夜市に出かけ台湾食の定番、点心と魯肉飯をいただき、翌朝の取材に備えた。

翌朝AM9:00。台中第二市場、通称食い倒れ市場に到着。

My destination for this time was a marketplace in Taiwan. Considering that there was going to be a huge crowd there, I booked an early morning flight so that I could spend as long time as possible and arrived at Haneda at 4:30 AM. “Let’s go get something to eat first.” I got myself pork cutlet curry at a food court and headed toward the boarding gate. I was waiting fully motivated and with full stomach when I had to hear this sad announcement, “Since the boarding plane has not arrived in Haneda airport yet, the departure time is yet to be confirmed.” Oh well, accidents in journeys are inherent. Quickly switching my mood, I tried to take a short nap on the sofa right next to me but ended up waking up constantly as the sofa was pretty hard. So finally, this dumb cook (me) ended up having soft cream for his dessert stomach despite being full. The plane was going to fly for three hours after that. And thus the trip this time started with a so-so incident.

I took a cab from Taoyuan Airport to the centre of Taipei and had 40 minutes to finish work, eat lunch and get on the bullet train. I was eagerly waiting to be in Taichung City. Although I did not have a great start, my journey lover self was super excited to get on the bullet train from the airport. I took some rest after I got to the hotel and left for Aiko night market where I had Taiwan’s standard food, dim sum and minced pork rice and then got into preparing for the next morning’s coverage.

Next morning 9 AM. Arrived at Second Taizhong Market, aka Kuidaore Market.

台中第二市場Second Taizhong Market

食材店はもちろんだが、市場内には、屋台的なごはん屋さんが、ざっと数えただけでも30軒近くある。どのお店もすでにお客さんが入り、ひとりで食べに来ている人から、6〜7人の大家族まで、台中市に暮らすたくさんの人たちで賑わっている。

さて、ひと通りのリサーチを終えて、麺にするのかご飯にするのか、ひとつしかない胃袋と相談しながら、目に飛び込んでくるおいしそうなものと格闘する。迷う。ふだんIT派ではない僕も、この時ばかりは外付けハードディスクならぬ、大容量が売りの外付けストマックを探したいと思った。そんな甘い妄想の末、選ばれたのは麺。ちゃんぽんのような蒸し麺を、さっと湯にくぐらしたやさしい食感の麺に少しとろみのついた魚介系醤油ベースのスープがかかる。「肉焿麵(ローガンメン)」、間違いなく日本人も大好きな味だった。

Of course I could see a lot of food stores but within the market area, I could roughly count up to 30 different food stalls that looked like food carts. Almost all the shops were already packed by customers living in Taichung City who were either eating there alone or with families of six or seven.

Well, after I briefly finished my research, I soughed for help with my only stomach to make a decision on whether to have noodles or rice and decided to go for whatever deliciousness would catch my eyes. It was confusing. Even though I am not an IT kind of a guy, but that time around I could not help but try and find a hard disk, an external stomach to be specific, that gave a huge storage. There came an end of such a sweet delusion and decided to go for noodles. It was an steamed noodle dish, something like Chanpon, swiftly dipped into hot water with a gentle texture of thickened seafood and soy sauce based soup. It was called loganmen, a taste that a Japanese would certainly go for.

店名:承器Name of the shop: 承器

次のお店は、市場内の一等地を大々的に占領している魯肉飯屋。キャベツを炒めたものや揚げなす、卵焼きといった、朝ごはんにぴったりなサイドメニューも充実している。

The next one was a minced pork rice shop which had extensively occupied a prime location within the market. They were serving stir-fried cabbage, fried eggplant, fried eggs which were substantially perfect side menus for breakfast.

ここでの注文は、角煮タイプの魯肉飯(ルーローファン)と
揚げなす、卵焼き。
I got myself Kakuni
(pork cut into cubes and boiled with seasoning)
type of minced pork rice (Rouleau fan),
friend eggplant and fried egg here.

店名:山河魯肉飯Name of the shop:山河魯肉飯

さらりとした台湾のごはんの上に、どっしと脂ののった豚バラ肉の塊が鎮座する姿に、お肉信者である僕は神々しさを感じ、心の中で2礼2拍手1礼しながら食べ進む。魯肉飯を食べては眺め、茶碗の中身が減っていく儚さを感じることとなるのだ。八角をあまり効かさずに甘辛く炊いた味は、僕好み。日本でも大好きな揚げなすは、素揚げして醤油で和えた王道タイプ。卵焼きもシンプルでおいしい。

こちらもペロリと完食して「おかわり」という言葉に後ろ髪を引かれながら、しぶしぶ次のお店へ。ここで注文はしたのは「乾意麺(ガンイーメン)」。

Without hesitation, my meat lover self proceeded to eat the Taiwanese rice which had a lump of butabara (pork belly) with dossi and fat enshrined on top of it while following the basic manner of prayer with the feeling of divinity. While eating the minced pork rice, I could actually sense how fast the contents of the dish was finishing up. I preferred the sweet-spicy taste so much that I did not care for the shape of it at all. Even in Japan, I prefer the type of fried eggplant that is slightly fried and marinated in soy sauce. And the fried egg was also simply the best.

While I finished eating there, with a reluctantly ignore the opportunity of ’ all you can eat’, I moved on to another shop. I ordered Inuiimen (Gan’imen) there.

店名:三代福州意麵老店Name of the shop:三代福州意麵老店

醤油と砂糖で味付けされたひき肉がのった、汁なし和え麺。さつま揚げのような揚げ物が添えられ、黒胡椒がたっぷりとかかっている。こちらは1軒目の麺にはない、つるっとした喉越しとコシが感じられる平打ちちぢれ麺。この時点で、僕の満腹中枢は完全に機能しなくなっていた。3軒目もまさかのペロリである。その勢いのままデザートに台湾の大判焼きと甘いアイスティを購入して今回の旅を終えた。

食べたいものばかりの台中第二市場は、まさに「食い倒れ市場」。この近くに住んでいたら、間違いなく毎日、いや1日3回通うことになるだろう。この市場のことを振り返ると、おいしい匂いとおいしそうな料理が思い出される。そしてなによりおいしそうに朝食をほおばる台中に暮らす人たちの顔が思い浮かぶ。市場はやっぱり、人を笑顔にさせる食材とごはん、そこからはじまるストーリーに溢れている。だからやめられないのだ、旅と市場と朝ごはんは!

萬歲!傳統市場的早餐!!(市場の朝ごはんバンザイ)

皆さんも台北ついでに台中で朝ごはんを楽しんでみてはいかかがでしょうか。
きっとおいしいストーリーに出会えます。

It was noodles with minced meat seasoned with soy sauce and sugar on the top without any soup. It came with fried items such as fried fish balls and a lot of black pepper. That was the only noodle shop around there that gave the feeling of flat curled noodles from my slippery throat to the waist. By this point of time, the satiety centre in my brain was no longer fully functional. The third shop also looked delicious. With that spirit, I bought Taiwanese obanyaki (muffin containing bean jam) and sweet iced tea and concluded my journey for this time.

Second Taizhong Market is where you can find all the great food, Kuidaore Market it is. If you were living there, you would definitely go there everyday, may be not, may be three times a day. That market only gives me the memories of delicious smell and appetizing food. And above all, I recall the faces of Taiwanese people living in Taichung City who would devour their early morning breakfast so deliciously. Markets are after all the places full of stories coming out from different foods that bring about smile among people. That is why it is impossible for me to live without journeys, markets and breakfasts.

萬歲!傳統市場的早餐!!
(Cheers to the breakfast in markets!!)

How about enjoying eating breakfast in Taichung in Taipei?
I am sure you will all come across some delicious stories.

旅のおまけ
角煮タイプの魯肉飯の作り方

材料:
豚バラブロック 500g
生姜 10g
にんにく 1片
長ねぎ 1/2本

A
醤油 大さじ4
砂糖 大さじ3
酒 大さじ3
水 500ml
オイスターソース 大さじ1
五香粉 少々

サラダ油 大さじ2
ごま油 小さじ2
ごはん 適量

作り方:
①生姜、にんにく、長ねぎをみじん切りにしておきます。
②豚バラを100g程度に切り分けフライパンで軽く焼き色をつけながら余分な脂を落とします。
③豚バラを取り出し、フライパンを洗ったら、サラダ油をあたためて生姜、にんにく、長ねぎを炒めます。
④豚バラとAを加えて、一煮立ちさせ弱火で2時間煮込みます。
⑤火を止めて、ごま油を回しかけごはんの上に乗せれば出来上がりです。

Bonus to the journey
Making of corner boiled type of minced pork rice.
Ingredients:
Pork block: 500g
Ginger: 10g
Garlic: 1 piece
Green onion: 1/2

A:
Soy sauce: 4 tablespoons
Sugar: 3 tablespoons
Alcohol: 3 tablespoons
Water: 500ml
Oyster sauce: 1 tablespoon
Chinese five spices powder : a little

Salad oil: 2 tablespoons
Sesame oil: 2 tablespoons
Rice: appropriate amount

Preparation Method:
1. Chop ginger, garlic and green onion into small pieces.
2. Chop pork block into small pieces of about 100g, put them in frypan and gently heat so that extra fat drops.
3. Take out pork, wash frypan, warm salad oil and fry ginger, garlic and green onion.
4. Add pork pieces and A; and together boil over low heat for 2 hours
5. Stop heat and pour sesame oil on top of rice. And the food is ready.

2016.05